Different Types of Chikankari Stitches Explained
Posted on September 27, 2025

Chikankari embroidery is more than just threadwork—it’s a centuries-old craft that brings fabric to life with delicate stitches. Each stitch has its own style, texture, and story. If you own or plan to buy a Pairahan Chikan kurti, here are the most popular Chikankari stitches you should know about.
🧵 Famous Chikankari Stitches
Bakhiya (Shadow Work)
Stitched from the backside of fabric
Creates a shadow effect on the front
Commonly seen on cotton kurtis
Phanda
Tiny knot-like stitches
Used to form flowers or small motifs
Adds texture and detailing
Ghas Patti
Resembles grass leaves
Usually made on borders and necklines
Enhances the overall design
Jali
Net-like stitch with open spaces
Looks like lace without cutting fabric
Considered one of the most artistic forms
Murri
Small rice-shaped stitches
Adds dimension to petals and motifs
Hool
Eyelet stitch, creating floral centers
Delicate and elegant detailing
🌟 Pairahan Chikan Craft Insight
Our artisans combine multiple stitches in one kurti, making each piece unique. For example, a cotton kurti may feature bakhiya with phanda motifs, while a festive silk piece may highlight jali with ghas patti.
✅ Conclusion
Understanding stitches helps you appreciate the effort behind each piece. When you wear a Pairahan Chikan kurti, you’re not just wearing embroidery—you’re carrying forward a 400-year-old legacy of Lucknowi craft.